But thanks to some really good tutorials online I was able to overcome this and generate 5-axis code! Some minor changes are needed in terms of machine layout settings and post-processor coding, to match the machine geometry and axis layout. You need to get involved with CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) and aim for the 5-axis tutorials to see if the software you are targeting is even capable of producing code for such machines.įortunately enough Fusion 360 is good in that and comes with an educational version too! You can even use Inkscape to generate g-code.īut if you are an engineer you know you have to think deeper. If you have the machine, it doesn't mean you can use the machine.Īs I said in the beginning, if you are an artist you are just fine with a router. It is just ON/OFF but through a relay module, controlled by the output pin #1. I did not make any sophisticated circuitry to control spindle speed. The control board also needs to control the spindle. Really simple stuff just connect + with + and - with - for all components (parallel power supply of 12v to all drives). An intermediate board to supply 12v to all stepper drivers and the spindle was custom made. So I got one of my old ATX power supplies and used the 12v output. The power supply that came with the router would not suffice. I know, these drivers are an overkill for the small NEMA 17 motors, but these were the ones I found to be plug and play for the MACH3 board.įor this thing to work, you need some serious power. So I got the BL-UsbMach-v2.1 and five stepper motor drivers TB6600. So I found out that the closest thing to making 5 axis work simultaneously (other than using any old-fashioned parallel ports) is a MACH3 usb board. Of course I knew that the board that came with the router is only for 3 axis and I should replace it. Not to mention the even bigger problem that stands in between, the firmware. Searching the net I found out that things are not this way when we are talking CNC. what now? I did the hard work (hardware). I tried printing some ninjaflex material but it is not suitable for this application, you need the belts to be really stiff in terms of tension to increase the machine's accuracy.Īnd now. The belts though, you can not avoid, you have to buy them. Mind to align Part9 with the T shape flat face on the bed (screw hole aligned with Z). Grab the attached STLs and print all of them 2 times, except for Part3 which is needed only once and Part9 4 times. I also used some 608 roller bearings and 8mm diameter smooth shafts.įeel free to browse and see assembly here: trunnionįor the printed parts (all greens and reds) I used ABS plastic. Of course lots of bolts and nuts (all are M3) were used to assemble the thing together. It consists of many parts that are mostly printed flat on the bed to be sturdy enough for this application. So I did a first design, then a second and I ended up with something that might actually work. I have to 3D print something really useful: a trunnion table!Īpologies for being such an infidel using OnShape for that, but I like using different platforms when designing new ideas. Then I thought, why build a 3D printer (prior years project) if you are only to use it for fancy stuff. So I thought, OK, I have to use a trunnion. The most common layout is a trunnion table mounted on top of a router's table. To convert a router to a 5 axis mill, you need two additional rotational axes.
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